安缦吉沃,印度尼西亚 / Ed Tuttle

力承中爪哇的深厚文化传统

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感谢 Aman + Ed Tuttle 予gooood的分享。
Appreciation towards Aman + Ed Tuttle for providing the following description:

Amanjiwo度假村坐落在梭罗(Solo)和日惹(Yogyakarta)两座皇城之间,远眺婆罗浮屠寺庙群(Borobudur)的美景。中部爪哇的独特艺术精髓和精神传统在此得以完美呈现。Amanjiwo(意为“平和的灵魂”)度假村充满昔日岁月的庄重辉煌,令人沉浸在独特的时空感中。度假村位于中爪哇核心的农耕区域,距离日惹机场仅一个多小时车程,离梭罗机场大约两小时车程。

▼度假村周边环境,context

Framed by emerald-green rice plains and the peaks of the Menoreh Hills in rural Central Java, Amanjiwo lies within view of the mystical stupas of Borobudur, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Amanjiwo is a 75-minute drive from Yogyakarta airport, and two hours from Solo airport. Both airports serve flights to Bali, Jakarta, Kuala  Lumpur and Singapore. The complimentary airport concierge service includes customs clearance assistance and car transfers.

▼项目概览,project overview

▼茅草凉亭和稻田,bales and rice fields

▼度假村位于中爪哇核心的农耕区域,the resort is framed by emerald-green rice plains and the peaks of the Menoreh Hills in rural Central Java

倚傍着岩石嶙峋的Menoreh山,远近散落着四座火山,整个度假村仿佛置于一个天然圆形剧场中。不远处,世界上最大的佛教胜地婆罗浮屠仿佛从Kedu平原的稻田中拔地而起。Amanjiwo的建筑以圆形、方形和弯月形为主要元素,旨在向婆罗浮屠致敬。这些建筑设计特点历经几百年传承,在中爪哇曾经随处可见的宏伟庙宇中被广泛运用。

The second-largest island of the Indonesian  archipelago, Java lies in between Sumatra and Bali, with the Java Sea to the north, and the  Indian Ocean to the south. The lush landscape  surrounding Amanjiwo is volcanic and ruggedly  beautiful, and the area, scattered with temples  and ruins, is considered Indonesia’s cultural  heartland.

▼圆形主体建筑鸟瞰,main building rotunda

Amanjiwo的核心是一个巨大的环形石灰岩建筑,中央顶部覆盖高耸的钟形拱顶。主建筑一边环绕着36间独立客舍,以两排弯月形排列。客舍周围的石灰岩墙高大浑厚,覆着茂盛的曼珠沙华和牵牛花。石铺小径连接客舍与主建筑以及泳池会所。

The Buddhist monument directly informs the design of Amanjiwo, a temple-like hideaway with a towering domed roof, colonnades and walls built of local blush-beige paras stone. Intersperse days of sightseeing – at serene Borobudur, bustling Yogyakarta or any number of vibrant villages – with spells of relaxation at Amanjiwo’s spa, 40-metre pool and romantic open-air restaurant.

▼主体建筑入口,可以看见远处的婆罗浮屠,Jiwo entrance with view through to Borobudur

▼户外露台,terrace at dusk

▼主入口夜景,front entrance at night

▼从主体建筑到客房的走廊,walkway from central building to suites

▼客房之间的走廊,walkways between suites

拱形屋顶,高挑的天花板和水磨石地板为客舍营造出优雅的空间。内部陈设包括置于水磨石平台上的四柱床,木屏风,椰子木和藤编家具,经典日惹风格蜡染布枕头,和传统玻璃画。在玻璃移门后,是私密的小花园,其中安排了嵌入式户外浴缸,以铜锣点缀。浴室内有两个更衣区,以及水磨石梳妆台。所有客舍都带有凉亭,内有供休憩或私密用餐的长榻。大多数客舍能远眺婆罗浮屠的美景。十五间客舍拥有私家游泳池。

Accommodation Decorated with sungkai-wood screens, coconut-wood and rattan furniture, antique batik cushions and Javanese glass artworks, the 36 freestanding suites radiate in two crescents from Amanjiwo’s central rotunda. All feature terrazzo floors, high ceilings, domed roofs and garden terraces with a thatched bale for outdoor lounging.

▼客房内部,guest room interior view

▼套房卧室,bedroom

▼套房户外浴缸,suite outdoor bathtub

▼花园泳池,garden pool suite

▼花园套房露台。Borobudur garden suite

有两间卧室的Dalem Jiwo客舍是一个充满私密性的独立院落,拥有独用入口,以及供休息娱乐使用的圆形石厅。幼绿的爪哇石砌成的游泳池长十五米,仿佛嵌入周围的稻田中。院落内设有Dalem Jiwo私家管家的住所,能够随传随到。

• Private compound with its own entrance and driveway
• Central rotunda for dining and lounging, overlooking a private 15-metre pool
• Wraparound terrace, two outdoor lounging bales
• Two separate bedroom pavilions with sunken out door tubs

▼Dalem Jiwo客舍入口,Dalem Jiwo Entrance

▼Dalem Jiwo客舍室内空间,Dalem Jiwo interior

▼Dalem Jiwo客舍泳池,dalem jiwo suite pool

▼泳池鸟瞰,aerial view

▼从泳池远眺山景,view from the pool to the landscape

▼Dalem Jiwo客舍休闲区,Dalem Jiwo lounge

Amanjiwo的餐厅(Dining Room)以古旧风格的银叶装饰天花板,整个空间与室外浑然一体,供应地道的印尼佳肴和西式烹调。餐厅拥有自己的印尼传统乐团,每到晚餐即为宾客们奉上精彩表演。整个餐厅充满剧场般的气氛,被两排弧形排列的石柱所环绕。室外露台安放了长软榻,黑漆铜桌,柚木椅,以及日惹风格蜡染靠垫,宾客也可以选择在这里就餐或小酌。

Dining The Restaurant, Bar and Terrace. Capacity: 90
• Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner
• Arresting views unfold from rice fields to the  stupas of Borobudur and mystical volcanic peaks
• Indonesian and Western cuisines served  alongside a daily changing degustation menu
• Most of the ingredients come from the chef’s  garden and local farms

▼主餐厅,main dining room

▼早餐,breakfast main dining room

▼餐厅美食,food service dining room

露台周围的景致任何时候都赏心悦目,而最迷人的是拂晓和黄昏时分,或者是雨后:天空澄澈,爪哇的天际线尽收眼底。正前不远处即是婆罗浮屠;在这雄伟的寺庙群后,是Tidar山清晰可辨的圆形山体。Tidar山被认为是爪哇岛的地理中心,传说中此山是一枚天钉之头,将爪哇固定在大地上。这座神秘的山峰被视为爪哇所有祥和圆满的源头。

•A pleasant 25-minute walk or cycle ride from Amanjiwo, the Unesco World Heritage Site of Borobudur is one of the world’s best preserved ancient monuments
•A dawn visit is highly recommended for witnessing the sun rise over the 9th-century Buddhas and enjoying sweeping views of the volcanic landscape Borobudur at Sunrise

▼泳池会所晚餐,pool club bistro dinner

酒吧(The Bar)内设长软榻和吊扇,位于主建筑高耸的圆顶下,圆顶是整个度假村的最高点。柱廊掩映下的泳池会所拥有四十米长的泳池,并提供各种饮品和小食。泳池会所紧邻稻田,用火山石建造,俨然一个古代露天环形剧场。

Pool Club. Capacity: 40
• Serving breakfast, light lunches, drinks and snack s from a raised, colonnaded deck
• Overlooks the green-tiled 40-metre infinity pool, surrounded by rice paddies and banyan trees

▼四十米长的泳池,40-metre infinity pool

▼被稻田和榕树环绕的泳池会所,Pool Club surrounded by rice paddies and banyan trees

精品店(Gallery)内出售各种古董,工艺品,以及手工编织、染印或绘制的丝巾和披肩。每一件作品都有编号和作者签名。这里有丰富的印尼特色手工艺品和古董,包括传统的甘美兰乐器,皮影玩偶,珠宝首饰以及loro blonyo男女人偶。这些人偶身披彩绘的婚礼盛装,代表女神Dewi Sri和她的男伴Raden Sadono。在爪哇,大多数家庭都供奉着这对人偶。

• Boutique sells a selection of Javanese art, textiles, crafts and antiques
• Traditional items include gamelan instruments,  shadow puppets, ceremonial baskets and  jewellery
• A selection of loro blonyo figures are also  available – painted statues, found in most  Indonesian homes, depicting the deity Dewi Sri and her male companion Raden Sadono

▼精品店,gallery

图书馆展示了Amanjiwo对当地文化的重视,收藏众多介绍印尼艺术和文化的书籍。另外,馆内还有丰富的CD、磁带和游戏藏品。图书馆举办定期讲座。印尼本地的专家在此就庙宇保护,爪哇艺术和传统文化等许多话题与宾客们交流。艺厅(Art Room)定期有各种展出。Amanjiwo度假村的“驻店艺术家”将此做为工作室,宾客们可以借用工具和颜料一展画技,或随驻店艺术家到周围的乡野进行晨间炭笔画写生。每个套房内配备的水彩画工具更能随时带来作画的乐趣。

• A large, light-filled library with two double daybeds
• Offers a range of books in several languages,  along with CDs and games
• Used as a venue for visiting speakers, with  expert lectures topics from temple preservation to Javanese art and culture
• Amanjiw o’s art room hosts regular exhibitions of work by renowned artists and photographers
• Sketching mornings in the surrounding countryside are overseen by an artist-in-residence
• A box of watercolours is available in every suite for capturing the inspiring views

▼图书馆,library

▼Pak Bilal传统房间,Pak Bilal House

爪哇的按摩久负盛名,不仅是独一无二的享受,更具有神奇的理疗功能。除了理疗按摩外,Amanjiwo的宾客们也可以选择面部护理,爪哇头肩按摩,以及其他美容护理。所有的护理服务都可以在客房内进行。

• Spa treatments can be enjoyed at the spa  suite, with its twin massage tables and  outdoor relaxation bale, or in the privacy of  guests’ suites
• Ancient Javanese rituals are incorporated into  the menu of facials, massages and cream  baths

▼酒店服务,service

Amanjiwo有两个网球场,边上设有茅草屋顶的小亭,供球赛之余休憩和享用点心。更远处是位于山坡上的Merapi山高尔夫俱乐部,这个18洞球场位于印尼最活跃的火山之一。球场终年气候凉爽,在火山宁静时,能欣赏火山美景和周围乡村的田园风光。

•Tee off at an altitude of 1,000m at Mt Merapi’s 18-hole course
•The 18-hole Borobudur Golf and Country Club is 35 minutes from Amanjiwo Gubuk Sawah Dinner

▼球场小亭,Gubuk Sawah Dinner

度假村设计了众多文化主题的游览路线。虽然兴趣不一,但到Amanjiwo的人都不会错过婆罗浮屠。从度假村短暂步行或骑一小程自行车即可到达这座建于8世纪的佛寺庙群。504座真人大小的佛像庄严静穆,基座共使用超过一百万块石块。这里充满着无法言明,却深入人心的神秘力量。爪哇人称之为rasa,即聆听内心的声音,关注直觉。婆罗浮屠周围犹如佛光笼罩,来自精神世界的深切体验,令观者动容。

•Southeast of Amanjiwo, near Yogyakarta, are the ancient Hindu temple complex of Prambanan, and Ratu Boko, which incorporates two hamlets with panoramic views
•Further afield, Sukuh, considered one of Indonesia’s most striking temples, and Ceto on the slopes of Mt Lawu, lie east of Solo
•Northwest, the Dieng Plateau is an area of great natural beauty, home to ancient Hindu temples and Java’s earliest standing stone structures

▼婆罗浮屠风景,Borobudur landscapes

▼佛像,Buddha statue

拂晓的婆罗浮屠最为迷人,四周空气清冽,鸟语如歌。随着清晨的薄雾散去,阳光渐渐洒满周围的火山和田地。第一次眺望婆罗浮屠是令人感动至深的经历。游客们可以坐村民们的传统马车造访这一胜地和周围丰富的历史文化遗迹。然后乘Amanjiwo特别为住客准备的苏门答腊大象回到度假村。

▼婆罗浮屠,Borobudur

•Volcanic Mt Merapi rewards both serious and casual hikers, rising to 3,000 metres; experienced climbers can attempt the summit at sunrise with an Amanjiwo guide
•The nearby Menoreh Hills offer a pleasant 2.5-hour hike, which can be combined with a drive to view the sunset at Suroloyo
•Further afield, the summits of Mt Sindoro (3,153m) and Mt Sumbing (3,371m) can also be attempted Andong Horse and Cart

▼传统马车,Andong Horse and Cart

▼大象骑行,Jiwo Elephant Ride

在广阔丰饶的Kedu谷地中,婆罗浮屠并不是唯一的宗教胜迹。传说曾经有两千座庙宇遍布在今天Amanjiwo周围的原野上。留存至今的包括距离婆罗浮屠最近的Pawon,和8世纪的大乘佛教寺庙Mendut。Mendut寺内有一尊用整块巨石雕刻的高达三米的坐佛。

Legend has it that 2,000 temples once graced the plains beyond Amanjiwo; those still standing near Amanjiwo include Pawon, considered the jewel of Javanese architecture, and Mendut, constructed around 800 AD.

▼婆罗浮屠坐佛,Open Buddha Borobudur

▼浮屠塔,Borobudur Stupas

Amanjiwo会在特定的日子在Mendut安排黄昏时分的古老爪哇冥想仪式。日若以东仅几公里的是古老的印度教建筑群Prambanan,几百座庙宇散落在田地原野中。其中最吸引人的是Loro Jonggrang寺。这座寺庙优雅华丽,拥有众多的庭院、佛堂、神龛和雕刻。经过一个整天的行程,可以抵达Dieng高原。这片沼泽区拥有旖旎的风光,其中散布着许多饱受岁月风霜的印度教庙宇,最早的可以追溯到8世纪,是爪哇现存最古老的石建筑。

▼Prambanan印度教建筑群,Prambanan Temple

在这里,大自然的鬼斧神工所缔造的奇迹随处可见。置身中部爪哇,无论放眼何处都能看到耸立在天际的巍峨火山。这种景象在婆罗浮屠四周的地区尤为雄伟。这里的火山仿佛都双生相邻:Merapi火山和Merbabu火山如雄伟的双生兄弟;而 Sumbing火山与Sundoro火山相互倚靠,中间以云雾缭绕的山丘相连。在婆罗浮屠,五月的日出升起在Merapi上,这座山的名字即“火之山”的意思。一年中的多数时候,破晓的第一缕阳光出现在Merbabu和Merapi之间的山谷。在Amanjiwo的露台上,Merbabu隐约可见,但最为醒目的是超过3,300米的Sumbing。如同来自神域的使者,Sumbing横空出世,呈现经典的圆锥形的山体。Sumbing被视为神山,传说山中安葬着将伊斯兰教传到爪哇的九位圣徒中的一位。

▼历史建筑和自然景观,the heritage in its natural landscape

Sundoro火山掩身在孪生姐妹Sumbing之后,只能窥见一个三角形的山影。置身Amanjiwo,住客们能体会移步换景的乐趣。从露台眺望,Sumbing雄伟壮观;而到了泳池会所,山体大部被郁郁葱葱的大树遮挡。在这里,冒着浓烟的Merapi是天际线上最浓重的一笔。这座山历来是世界上最活跃的火山之一,爪哇人几百年来对其心存敬畏,顶礼膜拜。有人相信,Merapi火山在1006年的大喷发导致了第一个苏丹王朝的崩溃,将中爪哇大部分土地掩埋于火山灰之下,也掩埋了之前两个世纪内修建的,包括婆罗浮屠在内的众多印度教和佛教庙宇。

▼丛林掩映下的婆罗浮屠,Nusa View of Borobudur

紧邻度假村的Menoreh山也是徒步的好选择。以Amanjiwo为起点的九十分钟徒步路线将Kedu山谷的美景尽收眼底。度假村一直在视线中,远处是壮美的婆罗浮屠。徒步路线的终点是一条山路,从这里宾客们可以乘坐度假村安排的车辆前往山峰环绕中的Suroloyo观赏落日。

▼单车骑行,Biking Tours

▼梯田,rice fields

婆罗浮屠位于日若和Surakarta(也称Solo)之间。这两座城市建于18世纪,彼时第二代苏丹王朝已迅速衰落的,其对手趁机兴建城邦。今天的日若是雅加达以东最繁华的城市,重要的大学城,也是一座皇城,拥有仍在使用中的皇宫。正如罗马城内的梵蒂冈,这座皇宫是座城中之城。皇宫的中心仍然是苏丹和他的家人的府邸。除了这一核心区域,皇宫是公众空间,举办舞蹈表演,授课,和各种节庆活动。

▼节庆活动,festivity

这些庆祝活动体现的不只是皇族传统,更传达了这片土地与当地人民的精神。居住在中部爪哇的民众热爱各种庆典仪式:从庄稼收获,到婚礼,或是男孩的成丁礼,他们都以传统音乐、美食、游戏和神舞隆重庆祝。这些仪式有时会吸引上百位邻近村庄的客人,多达几十位表演者,特殊庆典上更有神舞表演。好客的当地人总会热情欢迎Amanjiwo的宾客加入他们的庆典。

Celebrations in rural Java involve dozens of gamelan and dance performances, games of chance and country fare.

▼劳动的村民,Village scenes

▼传统陶艺,Local pottery Making

▼山间瑜伽,yoga

▼黎明中的婆罗浮屠,Borobudur at Sunrise

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