感谢 Lina Ghotmeh 予gooood分享以下内容。更多关于：Lina Ghotmeh on gooood
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Maroquinerie de Louviers是爱马仕在诺曼底地区的第二个基地中心，它延续了爱马仕百年来的手工和人文文化，旨在传递其卓越的工匠精神，并实现该品牌的环保目标。落成后的“爱马仕工坊”将迎来260名在Louviers École hermires des savoir-faire培训的工匠，这是一所由法国教育部认证的学徒培训中心(CFA)，能够为学徒们开具CAP皮革工作职业文凭。此外，本项目还将包括一间专门制作鞍具的工坊，以呼应曾坐落于巴黎郊区街24号的爱马仕马术皮具作坊。

The Maroquinerie de Louviers, the second site in Hermès’ Normandy hub, perpetuates the house’s artisanal and human culture, the spirit of passing on its exceptional know-how, and the group’s environmental ambitions. The workshop will welcome 260 artisans trained at the Louviers École Hermès des savoir-faire , its own apprenticeship training centre (CFA) accredited by the French Education Department which delivers the CAP vocational diploma in leather working. This manufacture also includes a saddlery workshop to support the dynamic equestrian métier, historically located at 24 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré, in Paris.

▼项目概览，overall of the project © Iwan Baan

通过强大的在地性，有力地促进了当地就业和培训事业
A dynamic boost for employment and training with a strong local anchoring

Maroquinerie de Louviers总部与Maroquinerie de Val-de-Reuil总部一起构成了爱马仕在诺曼底地区的皮革制品中心，旨在强调品牌自身在当地的定位，并致力于创造可持续的就业机会，培养卓越的职业匠人，发扬百年传承下来的手工技术。皮具工坊最终将雇用260名制作皮具和马鞍的工匠，以及负责管理、物流和人力资源等方面的员工。在工坊内，工匠们将制作手袋、小皮具、马鞍和缰绳。本项目将是爱马仕在巴黎以外建立的首座专门用于制作马术用品的工作室。作为爱马仕起家的营生，马鞍和马具工坊被规划在场地的中心。

The Maroquinerie de Louviers, which joins the Maroquinerie de Val-de-Reuil to form the Hermès Normandy leather goods hub, strengthens the house ’s local anchoring and its commitment to creating sustainable jobs, training in métiers of excellence and developing its artisanal know-how. The leather goods workshop will ultimately employ 260 leatherworkers and saddlers as well as staff in management, logistics and human resources roles, among others. Inside the workshop, the artisans will produce bags, small leather goods, saddles, and bridles. It is the first equestrian workshop to be established outside of Paris. As the oldest of Hermès ’ métiers, saddlery has been placed at the heart of the site.

▼工坊车间，workshops © Iwan Baan

▼皮具制作场景，scenario of manufacture © Iwan Baan

爱马仕品牌与当地就业服务中心、Greta de l’Eure成人教育中心、布里奥尼Augustin-Boismard高中，以及Pin National Stud种马场密切合作，在当地推行了一项高效的招聘和培训战略。爱马仕职业技术学校Louviers École hermires des savoir-faire已于2022年开业，其培训的工匠在切割和台面工作领域的表现堪称卓越，并具备多项职业技能。全新的工厂体现出爱马仕在手工制作方面的一贯精神，并成为其产品的可持续性，创造力、敏捷性，以及创新性的源泉。通过这第21家皮革工厂，爱马仕巩固了其作为一家对社会负责的公司的定位，创造了高质量的就业机会，并重申了其为地区发展做出可持续贡献的愿望。

Hermès is pursuing a recruitment and training strategy in close collaboration with the Pôle emploi employment service, the Greta de l’Eure adult education service, the Lycée Augustin-Boismard high school in Brionne, and the Haras national du Pin stud. The Louviers École Hermès des savoir-faire , opened in 2022, trains artisans for excellence in the fields of cutting and table work and develops their versatility. The new manufacture is in line with the house’s artisanal model: a source of quality, sustainability, creativity, agility and innovation. With this twenty-first leather workshop, Hermès is strengthening its role as a socially responsible company, creating high-quality jobs and reaffirming its desire to make a sustainable contribution to regional development.

▼专门用于制作马术用品的工作室，the equestrian workshop © Iwan Baan

▼室内连续的拱门，interior continuous arches © Iwan Baan

兼具大胆的设计和环保性能的建筑
An architecture that combines bold gestures with environmental performance

6200平方米的工坊车间是工匠们的工作与生活场所。其独特的设计来源于法国籍黎巴嫩建筑师Lina Ghotmeh。Lina的设计理念植根于她提出的“未来考古学”思想，这种思想旨在探索建筑与环境，以及建筑与场地背景之间的关系。这种探索既集中在座工厂建筑上，也集中在增强和保护其场地的方式上，而这种理念则与爱马仕的品牌价值观高度契合。

The 6,200 m2 workshop is a living space for artisans. Its unique design was entrusted to French Lebanese architect Lina Ghotmeh, whose work is rooted in what she calls “the archaeology of the future”, or how a building emerges in its environment and from the memory of its location. This quest focused both on the architecture of the manufacture and on the way in which it enhances and preserves its site, in line with the house ’s values.

▼夜景外观，exterior view at night © Iwan Baan

因此，这栋建筑真正的成功体现在它对爱马仕的环境目标做出的贡献。到目前为止，它是第一座获得法国E4C2标签的工业建筑。这座木结构建筑建坐落在工业用地上，共使用了50多万块砖，这些砖材是70公里外的Louviers地区生产的，使用当地材料旨在减少建造过程中消耗的灰色能源，进而降低建筑对于环境的影响，同时也彰显出诺曼底砖厂的优秀专业技能。作为主要材料，砖材将建筑嵌入到当地环境之中，并在不同的光线与季节产生微妙的色彩变化。同时，合理的平面规划与空间朝向，充分利用了自然光和通风，降低了建筑对人工照明、供暖和空调的需求。建筑的能源需求通过地热能（场地地下150米深处设有13个地热探针）和超过2300平方米的太阳能电池板来满足，它们的结合确保了项目的能源自主性。E+C标签根据能源（E）和碳（C）两个标准来评估新建筑的性能。其中，E4级为最高级别，这意味着Louviers皮具工坊是一座能够自主产生能量的建筑。同时，C2级也为最高级别，这项指标表示代表了减少碳足迹的最有效策略。

▼轴测图，axonometric drawing © Lina Ghotmeh

▼分析图，analysis diagram © Lina Ghotmeh

The workshop is thus a true technical achievement serving Hermès’ environmental goals. It is, to date, the first industrial building to have earned the French E4C2 label. The wooden-framed building was constructed on an industrial brownfield site using more than 500,000 bricks, produced 70 kilometres from Louviers to minimise the impact of construction while showcasing the know-how of Normandy’s brick-makers. As the main material used, the brick attests of the local embedding of the project in its environment and offers a palette of red and violet tones that vary according to daylight and the time of the year. Its position in the space takes full advantage of natural light and ventilation to limit the need for artificial lighting, heating, and air conditioning. These needs are met by geothermal energy (with 13 probes at a depth of 150 metres) and more than 2,300 m2 of solar panels, which combine to ensure the manufacture’s energy autonomy. The E+C- label assesses the performance of a new building according to two criteria: energy (E) and carbon (C). Level E4, the highest level, means that the Louviers leather goods workshop is a positive energy building. Level C2, also the highest, denotes the most efficient operation for carbon footprint reduction.

▼南立面，view on the south façade © Iwan Baan

在比利时景观设计师Erik Dhont的巧妙设计下，从场地挖掘的土壤变身为三公顷的起伏花园，此外，场地内的大部分原始树木也被保留了下来。为了保护当地的生物多样性，花园中配备了雨水导流和收集系统，可以将收集的雨水引入地下进行贮存。

Using the soil excavated from the site and the expertise of the Belgian landscape architect Erik Dhont, three hectares of undulating gardens have been created, retaining most of the site’s original trees. Designed to preserve local biodiversity, these gardens are equipped with a system for recovering and directing rainwater into the water table.

▼主入口，main entrance © Iwan Baan

▼建筑细部，exterior details © Iwan Baan

以创新的设计致敬爱马仕的卓越工艺
An innovative design that celebrates Hermès’ artisanal excellence

从建筑到日常运营，所有的设计都是为了确保建筑能够拥抱、延伸和补充其自然环境。这种“未来考古学”的方法也渗透到建筑的外观中，同时与爱马仕所珍视的主题相呼应，方方正正的建筑形态让人联想到爱马仕经典的方巾，而优雅的拱门则如同一匹马儿跳跃的轨迹。这种既创新又经典的形式贯穿了整个项目的设计，小到一块红砖，大到整个场地的景观设计，同时也让人联想到工匠们的匠人精神，以及他们对于精确度以及对卓越且美丽的皮具作品的不断追求。花园柔和的起伏，与和景观融为一体的拱门相互呼应，而砖材又使建筑与环境和谐共生。

From its construction to its day-to-day operation, everything has been designed to ensure that the building embraces, extends and complements its natural environment. This “archaeology of the future ” approach also permeates its appearance: echoing the motifs dear to Hermès, the square shape of the workshop is reminiscent of the house ’s silk carré, while its graceful arches evoke the trajectory of a jumping horse. This innovative and timeless form, thought of from the smallest scale of the brick and as a new layer in the landscape, also recalls the gestures of artisans, the precision of the hand and the constant pursuit of excellence and beauty in their leather work. The gardens’ gentle undulations recall the arches of a manufacture that blends into its landscape, down to the materials used to construct it.

▼接待空间，reception hall © Emmanuel Saulnier

在这种精心设计而又和谐的环境中，艺术家Emmanuel Saulnier被邀请为“村庄广场”、工厂的庭院和会议场所设计了一件艺术品。这件作品的灵感来自Théodore Géricault于1821年创作的画作《The Epsom Derby》，装置由悬挂在皮革马镫带上的七根不锈钢针组成，由马镫制造商定制。钢针的水平线唤起了马儿在暴风雨天空下奔跑的形象，并将这种联想与手工艺联系在一起。Maroquinerie de Louviers总部体现了爱马仕在可持续发展领域上的雄心，以及对美丽事物的欣赏和对员工福祉的追求。自2010年以来，爱马仕在法国开设了10家皮革制品车间，雇佣的马鞍和马具工人人数超过4700人。目前，该品牌正在发展另外四处技能培训中心，分别位于 Tournes-Cliron (Ardennes)、Riom (Puy de Dôme)、 L’Isle-d’Espagnac (Charente) ，以及 Loupes (Gironde)，今后将陆续征聘和培训更多具有专业素养的工匠们。

It was in this precise and harmonious setting that the artist Emmanuel Saulnier was invited to design a piece of art for the “village square”, the manufacture ’s courtyard and meeting place. Inspired by The Epsom Derby, a painting by Théodore Géricault from 1821, the work consists of seven stainless steel needles suspended by leather stirrup straps custom-made by the house’s bridle-makers. These horizontal lines evoke the movement of horses beneath a light-filled stormy sky and connect it to the artisanal gesture of the expert hand. The Maroquinerie de Louviers thus embodies the house ’s sustainable development ambitions as well as its appreciation of beautiful things and the well-being of its employees. Since 2010, Hermès has opened ten leather goods workshops in France, bringing the number of saddler- leatherworkers employed by the group to more than 4,700. Four further workshops are currently being developed: in Tournes-Cliron (Ardennes), Riom (Puy de Dôme), L’Isle-d’Espagnac (Charente) and Loupes (Gironde), for which recruitment and training are ongoing.

▼由Emmanuel Saulnier创作的艺术装置，
art installation by Emmanuel Saulnier © Emmanuel Saulnier

▼装置细部，details of the art installation © Emmanuel Saulnier

考古学与工匠精神的呼应
Archaeological discoveries echoing the artisan’s gesture

INRAP考古学家对该场地进行了施工前的考古发掘，并发现了一系列可以追溯到旧石器时代的燧石工具，这证明了该地区在史前就已经有了皮革制作的工艺。此外，考古学家们还在场地中发现了一匹马的颚骨，这进一步加强了场地历史与爱马仕历史的象征性联系。

The pre-construction archaeological excavations carried out on the site by INRAP archaeologists revealed a wide range of flint tools dating back to the Palaeolithic period, which attest to the leather work carried out in this prehistoric community. A horse ’s jawbone was also found, adding to the symbolic links that connect the history of the site to the history of Hermès.

▼施工过程，construction process © Takuji Shimmura

▼模型，model © Lina Ghotmeh

▼平面图，plan © Lina Ghotmeh

▼立面图，elevation © Lina Ghotmeh

▼剖面图，section © Lina Ghotmeh

▼细部详图，detailed drawings © Lina Ghotmeh

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