ACNE STUDIOS’ FLAGSHIP STORE / S.H. ARCHITECTS LIMITED

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在韩国首尔江南区，狭长弯曲的道路两侧有全韩国最高级的奢侈品店。基于“快节奏城市里的避风港”这个理念，设计师为Acne Studios打造了一家囊括了男女装的旗舰店。首尔充斥着大量的西方品牌，本土品牌的特点似乎很容易淹没在这些西方品牌里，但却从未发生过。作为游客的设计师则感觉是西方品牌和韩国的本土文化相互影响，碰撞出了火花。

The narrow, winding side streets of Gangnam house some of the most exclusive shops in the South Korean capital.

It is in this setting – a haven of peace in a fast-moving city – that we have built a new store for Acne Studios: a flagship store, in which they will sell both their men’s and women’s collections.

Seoul has a highly distinctive character. The large number of western brands to which it is home – powerful brands, with strong identities – could very easily have undermined its individuality; but this doesn’t seem to have happened. As a visitor, my impression is that western brands and Korean urban culture have given something to one another; that they have cross-fertilised to exciting effect.

瑞典文化崇尚谦逊和谨慎，相比之下，Acne Studios的设计则非常大胆而有态度，而这家店当然就要体现出这点。单看外部，它就像一个内敛文雅的闪闪发光的盒子，通透又魅惑，似乎朴素平和。然而外表是会欺骗人的。当客人进去建筑就会发现这就是一个盒子，一个藏在质朴面具下的巨大笨重水泥怪物。

I will try to describe my approach to the design of the building.

Swedish culture prizes modesty and discretion. By contrast, Acne Studios’ designs are forceful and exude attitude. Our building reflects this contrast. Viewed from the outside, it is a restrained, rather elegant lightbox: translucent and ghostly but, in essence, plain and simple. Appearances, though, can be deceptive; and so they are, in this case. As soon as you enter, you realise that while it may only be a box, it is a box concealing a heavy, brooding, concrete monster.

粗质混凝土建成的长方体建筑分为上下两层，四根混凝土柱子支撑着二层和屋顶。混凝土楼梯围绕其中一根柱子盘旋而上。拾阶而上，建筑看起来似乎有点怪。但向下看便会发现，粗拙的混凝土结构与罩在外部的半透明墙体是完全分离的，如同展柜和展品的关系。这个建筑毫无装饰。混凝土上的纹路是成排原木压过留下的痕迹，这原木来自遥远的斯德歌尔摩，是群岛海滩上木板桥用的原木。Acne Studios服饰摆在反射金属墙前的开放空间内，店内没有任何一面使用传统材质的饰面墙。

It is a rectangular building on two floors, both of rough concrete, with four pairs of concrete columns holding up the roof and the upper floor. Around one of these columns winds a floating concrete staircase. Once upstairs, you realise that there is something else about this building that is a little bit strange. As you look down and about, you notice that the rough, lumpen, concrete structure is entirely separate from the translucent walls that enclose it; that it sits inside its elegant box as if in a display case.

There is no decoration. The concrete bears the imprint of rough timber such as that used to make boardwalks to the beach in the Stockholm archipelago; and Acne Studios’ clothing is shown against softly reflective metal walls, freestanding in the open space; but there is not a single decorative finish of a traditional kind.

瑞典阳光明媚空气清新，清新的空气可以给人以愉悦的感受。这家店整体氛围不落窠臼。在这儿，完全没有人在首尔的感觉，阳光透过聚碳酸酯墙柔和地洒在客人身上，头顶的灯光从金属网格扩散开来。除此以外，建筑还会通过音乐演奏来加强这种脱俗感。这家店风格简洁质朴，没有多余的装饰和结构，各种管道都放置在屋顶，以此来保持店内的氛围。还有一个细节：建筑周围的植物都是典型的瑞典群岛植物，比如像小野莓一样的野生植物。

Sweden is a land of light and air: vibrant light and clean, fresh, invigorating air that can induce feelings of euphoria and otherworldliness. The shop’s atmosphere is otherworldly. You are cut off from views of Seoul; you are enveloped in soft daylight, filtering through the polycarbonate walls, and light from bare fluorescents overhead, diffused by metal grids; and we have played tricks with the music to increase the sense of otherworldliness.

The store is also pristine. No equipment – no ducts or pipes; no entrails or vital organs; no obtrusive mechanical realities – are allowed to disturb the atmosphere within. Instead, they are piled up on the roof.

One last detail: the building sits on vegetation typical of that found in the Swedish archipelagos: wild plants of every description, including, of course, wild strawberries.

▽ 一层，first floor

▽ 二层，second floor / 屋顶平面，rooftop

▽ 剖面，section

▽ 细部设计，detailed design

Drawings: S.H. ARCHITECTS LIMITED
English Text: S.H. ARCHITECTS LIMITED
Chinese Text: gooood

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