Joseph Dejardin完成了晨风集团位于江苏昆山园区内一座12000平方米的工厂厂房改造。设计将原厂房的服装生产车间与行政办公室打造为一座现代时尚工作室与灵活办公场所的集合体。作为中国最大的纺织服装制造公司之一，本项目是Joseph Dejardin工作室将晨风集团制衣工厂改造升级为培育中国时装设计孵化中心的园区再生总体规划的第一部分。
Joseph Dejardin completes the renovation of a 12000sqm former factory building at Chenfeng Group’s Kunshan campus near Shanghai, South China. The design transforms garment production workshops & administrative offices into contemporary fashion studios and flexible office space. As one of China’s largest textile & garment manufacturing companies, the conversion project is part of the studios’s ambitious redevelopment masterplan to transform the factory site into a creative hub for nurturing fashion design in China.
始建于2003年，晨风集团昆山厂房园区占地90000平方米，坐落于江苏昆山与上海的边界。晨风集团员工总数逾15000人，晨风集团是国际公平劳工协会(FLA)的认证企业和国际可持续服装联盟(SAC)成员，也是Patagonia、优衣库、 Stella McCartney等多个国际品牌，以及Feng Chen Wang, Xu Zhi和Chen Peng等众多中国设计师品牌的生产合作伙伴。晨风集团并与中国第一代国际超模吕燕合作创立了成衣品牌Comme Moi。发挥集团纺织及服装生产的专业经验优势，园区改造再生的整体规划将为晨风集团与国内顶级时装设计学术机构和蜚声国际的中国年轻时装设计师建立长期的合作关系，其中许多设计师已在厂区内设有工作室。
Located at the border of Kunshan City and Shanghai, Chenfeng Group’s 90,000sqm factory campus was set up in 2003. With over 15,000 employees, Chenfeng Group is a certified enterprise of the International Fair Labor Association and a member of the International Sustainable Apparel Coalition. The company is a production partner to international brands including Patagonia, Uniqlo, Stella McCartney, and Chinese fashion designers such as Feng Chen Wang, Xu Zhi and Chen Peng. The group is also a partner in the ready-to-wear brand Comme Moi, founded by former supermodel Lü Yan. Taking advantage of the group’s garment manufacturing expertise, the redevelopment masterplan aims to establish long term collaborations with the country’s top fashion design institutions and internationally renowned young Chinese fashion designers, many of whom already maintain studios on site.
▼工厂厂房外观，factory building exterior view
The former factory building sits at the centre of the campus, which is progressively being transformed from a conventional production facility into a modern fashion hub with integrated production capabilities. A phased renovation strategy was devised with the Client to minimise disruption, as continuation of production is key to the Client’s vision for the site. This facilitated the continuous operation of factory floors, pattern cutting rooms, and studio spaces in the lower floors of the building throughout the renovation process.
Key spaces were identified within the building for transformation: a renovated grand entrance lobby; re-imagined communal courtyard with shortcut stair; meeting & multi-functional spaces, design studios & executive offices to replace the former factory administration offices. The design also reconfigured the circulation and services to meet the demands building‘s new occupants.
“我们希望能够在这次改造中尽可能保留建筑原有的元素，仅在必要时做出改变以提升建筑功用。建筑原有的空间特征通过设计得到了传承，营造出的独特氛围是客户企业文化与历史的体现。” 工作室创始人及设计总监Joseph Dejardin说，“设计中的要点之一，是在保证改造工程经济性的同时，最大化空间的灵活性，打造一个在未来也能满足使用者需求的工作环境。”
The renovated spaces are designed to maximise flexibility, meeting the varied demands of fashion studios for design, cutting, storage and fitting, as well as the potential demands of any future occupants through minimising the use of fixed subdivision and increasing the ability to circulate between spaces while focusing on the use of high-quality finishes.
“We wanted to work with the existing as much as possible, only making changes where necessary to adapt and improve the building’s function. We feel that our attempts to retain the essential character of the spaces within the building succeeded and lend the project an atmosphere that is uniquely representative of the client company and its history,” said Joseph Dejardin, founder & design director of the studio. “For us it was important to work economically with the building to maximise the flexibility of the spaces and create a working environment that will meet the functional demands of the occupants well into the future.”
▼空间内减少了固定隔断，提升空间之间的流通性，the use of fixed subdivision was minimized, increasing the ability to circulate between spaces
The design methodology was focused around identifying and retaining key original features from the existing factory while introducing a contrasting clean and modern material language to update and prepare the building for its future use. Marble, granite, white painted plaster, mirrored glass and brushed aluminium were kept where appropriate, and elsewhere original materials were stripped back to introduce concrete and brick into the palette. High quality finishes such as terrazzo, stretch membrane ceilings, translucent mirrored glass and white powder coated steel were then introduced to develop a contrasting materiality as a counterpoint to the existing. This contrasting materiality communicates the distinction between existing fabric and contemporary interventions within the building.
▼设计引入了简洁而现代的高品质材料，the design introduces a contrasting clean and modern material language to update and prepare the building for its future use
The renovation of the entrance lobby is a statement responding to both the factory’s heritage and its future, a dark red marble floor juxtaposed with an illuminated stretch membrane ceiling. The dark red marble floor was installed as a continuation of the red marble entrance portals that exist throughout the campus and gives the project a link to its past materiality, a link the client wished to preserve.
▼大堂设计轴测图，lobby – axon
A minimal and futuristic illuminated stretch membrane ceiling was then installed, creating a contemporary atmosphere and intentionally contrasting with the classic marble floor. The existing internal partition build ups were removed, and the newly exposed brick walls painted a clean white, while the concrete structure was given a white wash to soften its intensity. Opposite, the existing glazed façade was removed and replaced with a minimal updated brushed stainless-steel glazing system, the low-iron glass coated with a semi-reflective coating. Gallery spaces are positioned at each end of the lobby, separated from the main space by sheet glass. These spaces are used by Chenfeng Group and the other designers for exhibition display. Atop each of these enclosed displays is a viewing gallery overlooking the lobby space.
▼极简未来风格的照明软膜与古典的大理石地面形成鲜明对比，the minimal and futuristic illuminated stretch membrane ceiling creates a contemporary atmosphere and intentionally contrasting with the classic marble floor
▼裸露出的砖墙以涂白处理，the concrete structure was given a white wash to soften its intensity
Throughout the factory buildings, a simple polished grey granite is present, used across floors, doorways, and as wall cladding. This stone is retained in many locations and continues to be employed throughout circulation spaces and in the fourth-floor courtyard, where it clads the surrounding columns and surfaces, contrasting with the newly introduced glazing and white powder-coated steel of the viewing gallery railings.
▼花岗岩与半透明镜面玻璃和白色粉末涂层钢形成视觉上的对比， the use of granite contrasts with the newly introduced glazing and white powder-coated steel of the viewing gallery railings
A minimal palette of clear glass, brushed stainless steel, and white powder-coated steel are chosen for the multi-use offices and meeting rooms. Semi-reflective glazing is used to create clean, linear spaces while maximising natural daylight. The existing plaster finish of the structure in these spaces was scraped away to expose concrete pillars and beams within the new working space, a light residue being left to soften their presence. A poured terrazzo was selected to finish the floors creating a hard-wearing, quality finish. These finishes are combined with strip lighting and soft lighting from hanging pendants, to create a sense of warmth and communality.
▼简洁的线性空间，a clean, linear space
The large courtyard on the fourth floor is designed as a communal meeting and break out space, shared by the surrounding office & studio spaces. A traditional rock garden retained from the old building layout sits beside a spiral shortcut staircase spanning over three floors and leading up to the large open event space on the sixth floor.
▼中式园林假山，traditional rock garden
▼旋转楼梯，the spiral shortcut staircase
Joseph Dejardin 说：“晨风集团是扶持中国年轻设计师的先导者，而本项目崭新、现代的工作环境为未来设计师的孵化提供了理想平台。我们希望通过设计，创造一个能够满足集团未来潜在需要的现代工作环境。本项目是园区再生计划的第一步，也是我们与晨风集团长期合作关系的开始。改造中所探索的关于新旧元素的对话，在保留原有建筑底蕴的同时亦能展望未来，对业主与我们来说是这一项目的关键。”
▼共享工作室空间，the large shared studio space
Glass partitions around the courtyard on the fourth-floor open onto a large shared studio space, whereas the fifth floor hosts a series of smaller separate offices, meeting rooms, and archive spaces. The light-filled courtyard creates a strong visual connection between the spaces, encouraging people to meet and interact.
“Chenfeng Group are leaders in nurturing young fashion talent in China and this project underlines that; the modern, up-to-date workspaces provide the ideal platform to continue to cultivate this success. Our ambition for the project was to create a contemporary workspace that is tailored to the client’s future ambitions. We have a strong ongoing relationship and see this as only the first step in the development of the new campus. To be able to differentiate between the existing and the new, and to retain the spirit of the existing building while looking to the future was very important for ourselves and the client.” said Joseph Dejardin.
The renovation is emblematic of a wider trend within the Chinese manufacturing sector, as companies seek to expand their focus to research and development while retaining their core manufacturing capabilities. This project embraced this through a materiality that looked to the future while retaining strong links to the past through preservation and reimagination.
▼新旧平面对比，existing & refurbishment plan
设计团队：Joseph Dejardin, John Sprunt, Tamsin Hanke
摄影：Hedy @ RAW VISION
Project name: Chenfeng Group Fashion Hub Factory Renovation
Address: Chenfeng Group, Kunshan, Jiangsu
Building size: 12000 sqm
Design Area: 6000 sqm
Year of design: 2017-2018
Year of construction: 2017 – 2018
Client name: Chenfeng Group
Architect: Joseph Dejardin
Project Team: Joseph Dejardin, John Sprunt, Tamsin Hanke
Photography: Hedy @ RAW VISION