非常感谢 OMA 将以下内容授权gooood发行。更多关于他们：OMA on gooood
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OMA将Prada 2016年秋冬时装秀表演转变为一场精彩绝伦的视听盛宴，秀场设计模糊了观众与模特的界限，将长久以来静坐一侧的观众拉入了表演场地，成为了整个演出的一部分。大量图像记录和网络互动被引入秀场，即时的回应和评论让表演不再是孤立的存在，时装秀似乎成为了一种公开的审判，如同德语作家埃利亚斯·卡内蒂代表作《迷惘》的现场演绎。

The division between the role of the audience and actor is blurring: all have become players in the same secular ceremony of the fashion show. No longer relegated to passive observer, the spectator is now an active participant in the events unfolding in front of them.

The assemblage of recorded impressions and digital reactions inserts itself into the once autonomous narrative of the fashion show. The statement of the collective spreads. The mass of fragmented instant data is uploaded and critiqued by a multitude of voices. This consumption of images is like a public trial, a contemporary transposition of the Auto-da-fé (1).

▽ 观看坐席与表演场地无缝连接，seating area interacts with the catwalk

AMO（注：AMO为OMA内的研究部门）受传统的公众仪式性场所启发，一系列的楼厅结构沿会场的四边伸展，环绕着中间的表演场地。在房间的中央，高高抬起的看台打破了空间的对称关系，形成了回字形的T台场地。

For the 2016 Fall Winter Prada show, AMO takes inspiration from the traditional public stages and places of civic ceremonies (2). Placed around the periphery of the room, a system of balconies and tribunes defines the central space. Similar, yet different they create an imbalanced symmetry (3). A raised viewing platform is inserted into the middle of the room, dominating the catwalk.

▽ 回字形的T台场地，A raised viewing platform is inserted into the middle of the room

同样的廊台结构延伸到了室外，成为城市界面上一道独特的风景，也创造了一个极富仪式感的入口空间，与周边环境的强烈对比让人不禁如坠梦境，难分真假。观众按次序，分座与楼厅上下或中间的看台上。模特在空间上下穿行，让观众也仿佛成为了表演的参与者。

This assemblage of structures breaks through the building, expanding into the surrounding streets and urban domain. A new entrance, marked by a ceremonial gateway, creates an oneiric (4) passage from street to show. Guests gather on the balconies, tribunes and central platform in crowds according to a series of spatial hierarchies. No longer bystanders, they become active participants in the ritual unfolding around them.

▽ 极富仪式感的建筑空间，ceremonial building structure

刨花密度板与简洁的建筑结构形成了鲜明的对比。不规则的暗红、深棕色斑点点缀在结构表皮上，戏剧化的灯光效果让斑驳的肌理愈发引人注目，也为秀场增添了一份黑暗和神秘的色彩。

The OSB wood cladding counters the simplicity of the structures. An irregular pattern of red and dark patches covers the surface, while dramatic lighting enhances its uneven texture. The dark and enigmatic chiaroscuro atmosphere is enhanced by a theatrical use of lights.

▽ 迷幻的空间和色彩, enigmatic chiaroscuro atmosphere

1) The Auto-da-fé is a:
a) public penance of condemned heretics
b) title of the English edition of the novel by Elias Canetti, Nobel for Literature in 1981 and author of Crowds and Power (1960)

2) Indirect reference to the Auto-da-fé ceremony
3) Reference to the work of Maurits Cornelis Escher

4) Reference to Calderon de la Barca – La Vida es un Sueño (Life is a Dream, 1635) describing the relationship between dreams and reality

Team: Giacomo Ardesio, Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli (Partner), Giulio Margheri

另：AMO为OMA旗下研究部门，专门针对可识别性，文化，组织管理等问题进行研究。

Drawings: OMA
English Text:OMA
Chinese Text: gooood

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